Pure Tung Oil for Wood Finishing, Cutting Boards, Outdoor Furniture, Butcher Blocks, Wood Flooring, Food Grade, Waterproof, 8 oz

I used the RMP Pure Tung Oil and Real Milk Paint Citrus Solvent to revive and protect a thick decorative wood cutting board and a butcher block work bench. Both were dry and in need of a finish upgrade. First the cutting board was in good shape but dry. The first few coats were applied with about 3 parts Real Milk Paint Pure Tung Oil and 1 part RMP Citrus Solvent which is also a non toxic food grade product that smells nice in the home although I did the work in my garage until complete. The second round of oil was added the next day mixed at 50/50 as recommended by the RMP people. I called them for application advice and how to go about handling the rags and leftover product. I used sponge brushes to apply and between coats I just put the brush in a cup covered in foil and did the same with the product. As long as it's a cool location below say 80 degrees the product would not suffer or diminish in quality over a few days. After 2 days and about 6 coats the cutting board came out absolutely amazing ! The finish darkened and the grain just pops so beautifully what an amazing transformation and the feeling is silky smooth and not too oily at all yet now it no longer feels dry, Perfect !! Next I did the work bench which was in need of some oil pretty bad. I applied three coats 50/50 mix waiting a few hours or until nearly dry between coats. The next day I did the same also mixed 50/50 and the bench darkend nicely but not as much as the cutting board but again after letting dry out by the third day the bench was completely revived and the finish is much more resistant to water or other spill damage. Both the bench and the cutting board are far better looking than new. In fact I should have done this to both when they were new. I purchased the 32 oz bottle of Tung oil and I have 3/4 of the bottle left so it really goes a long way. Great Product and Great Support for the RMP people.

Works great for cutting boards and more. I'd buy this again in a heartbeat.

I have never been a handy sort of guy, but Tung oil is so easy to use that this project was a breeze. I'm finishing six bamboo poles for use in Shibari so they will get banged around a bit, being tied together and such. I sanded lightly with 320 sandpaper to remove any residue and applied the first three coats with 24 hours between each. It's just a matter of applying the oil liberally, letting it set for about an hour, and wiping off the excess. The first coat absorbed completely, but successive coats seemed to leave more oil on the surface. After three coats, I waited 48 hours between the next three, and 72 hours for the last coat. The oil darkens the surface and brings out the natural beauty of the material. It takes less than ten minutes for me to apply the oil to the six, two-inch by three-foot poles, and much less than that to wipe them down later. Perhaps fifteen minutes total. With seven coats that an hour forty-five for the whole project, but spread over ten days. I used less than half of the thirty-two ounces, so I have plenty left for repairs or other pieces I may want to finish. Tung oil is non-toxic so I didn't wear any hand protection. It's non-volatile so no breathing protection, and it smells rather pleasantly like peanuts. After, it washes off easily with a little detergent. As to how durable the finish is, that remains to be seen.

i refinished a very old pine floor with 1:1 mix of real milk citrus solvent and pure tung oil. one gal of each allowed for 6 coats on 500sq ft of floor with spectacular results. this was the ideal finish for my floor because i could not stay off of it for more than an hour at a time and am very sensitive to nasty chemicals. i put on a coat a day and my house smelled like orages for two weeks! i was walking on it with a dedicated pair of slippers which got a little oily but no problem. i have refinished many furniture with this same mix. since i hate the yellow tinge of pine, i dyed the floor a little with water base dye a mix of pre-mixed cherry dye and red... tip of teaspoon mixed in quart of water... the result is a really beautiful warm red tint to the floor which the tung oil finished beautifully. i never use stain on anything i do furniture or floors... water based dyes are the only way to go. tung oil cut with citrus solvent is the only wood finish worth using for any wood. non. toxic, easy to use, fool proof, easy future repairs and invisible patch repairs, supper easy to use, easy to clean after. what else do you want?! i ordered two mover solvents and another tung oil. the first set arrived in 2 days. the 2nd set was very late to arrive... i was getting ready to call. i was surprised since the first set got here so fast. still... the best price on these i have found and good service. once you use it, you will never use any other.

Milk Paint half & half is easy to use and smells way better than I thought it would. I finished a a teak stool seat and a hickory work bench top with this product. It really brought out the beauty of the teak and added a lot of depth to the hickory. I’m still in the curing phase so I can’t speak of its durability but time will tell. I did add a couple of extra coats and really liked the old school look. It was just perfect for the teak stool seat I’m putting on an antique restoration.

I added an acacia butcher block into the end of my kitchen island. I used 3 coats of the Real Milk Paint Tung Oil and I am very pleased with the finished look. I have attached two photos of the butcher block, one photo shows about half half of the butcher block covered in with the first coat of tung oil and the other photo is the completely finished butcher block withe the full 3 coats of tung oil. I left the tung oil on for 24 hours before each application. I applied the tung oil with a paint brush and wiped off any excess oil with a paper towel. Follow up: I accidentally ran a sharper than expected bread knife through a loaf of bread and the end of the blade put a deep cut into my butcher block counter. I was a little freaked out about how bad the cut looked but I immediately poured a little of the tung oil over the cut and rubbed it in with my finger, the cut immediately darkened and faded away...I can't even tell a deep cut was there, this stuff is awesome!

This is real Tung oil from China. Not whatever is in those cans in the big box place You have to renew every 3 months forever. Its food grade, not thinned, the stuff that has been doing preserving work and hand rubbed luster for 2000 years. I mix it one half oil to one half mineral spirits. brush, roll, spread around with your bare hand. but apply liberally. leave it for about a half hour. Then rub with clean white rags. rub till dry in appearance. This is a "drying oil" Oxygen catalyzes it. So don't leave it on with puddles and not rub it dry or you will have a gooey mess. This is by FAR the easiest finish to apply. Apply every other day till you have 3 coats. It will leave a golden, satin, finish that will amaze you. After a couple more days it will be very scratch resistant. At most in 6 months It might need one more coat. Then it will be good for years. Excellent for raw wood floor finish, tables , even as a polish. Your friends will ask how you got that rich color.

I do a lot of woodworking, and over the years have found that for most projects, I prefer Tung oil over anything else. Polyurethane is my second go-to finish where toughness and a layer of protection over the wood is needed, but Tung oil is very protective as it penetrates well and forms a waterproof barrier in and on the wood. It is the most attractive finish I have found in terms of revealing the beauty in the wood. It requires patience though, since a good finish requires several coats, wiped out to very thin layers, which must dry a few days before adding additional coats. I find it foolproof though, and simple to use, just straight without 'thinning', which isn't at all necessary for proper penetration when rubbed in well. It is simple to maintain as well, with a.freshening wipe on and off maybe annually, depending on use. It will provide a semigloss surface layer if you have the patience and time to build the coats up, and polish them out over a month of time.